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Lean to shed plans – 4’x8′. Shed plans include a free PDF download (link at bottom of blog post), illustrated step-by-step instructions, shopping list, and cutting list.
Lean To Shed Plans – 4×8 – Overview
Lean To Shed Plans – 4×8 – Material List
Shopping List
Shopping List
(material for door not included below)
Floor
6 – 2×6 (pressure treated) – 8′
2 – 4×4 (pressure treated) – 8′
1 – 3/4″ plywood – 4’x8′ sheet
Back Wall Frame
11 – 2×4 – 8′
Front Wall Frame
8 – 2×4 – 8′
Right/Left Wall Frame
10 – 2×4 – 8′
Rafters
3 – 2×4 – 10′
1 – 2×4 – 8′
T1-11 Exterior Siding
4 – t1-11 exterior siding – 4’x8′ sheet
Roof Deck
2 – 1/2″ plywood – 4’x8′ sheet
Trim
1 – 2×4 – 10′ (cut to size)
2 – 1×4 – 10′ (cut to size)
8 – 1×4 – 8′ (cut to size)
Hardware
3 1/2″ galvanized nails
2″ galvanized nails
1 1/4″ galvanized finishing nails
2″ deck screws
shingles
roofing felt
drip edge
roof tacks
roof staples
Cutting List
Cutting List
(material for door not included below)
Floor
2 – 2×6 (pressure treated) – 8′
7 – 2×6 (pressure treated) – 3′ 9″
2 – 4×4 (pressure treated) – 8′
1 – 3/4″ plywood – 4’x8′ sheet
Back Wall Frame
2 – 2×4 – 8′
9 – 2×4 – 7′ 4 1/2″ (18 degrees angle cut on one end)
Front Wall Frame
2 – 2×4 – 8′
6 – 2×4 – 6′ 2 1/8″
Right/Left Wall Frame
4 – 2×4 – 3′ 5″
8 – 2×4 – 6′ 2 1/8″
Rafters
7 – 2×4 – 4′ 3 1/4″
T1-11 Exterior Siding
4 – t1-11 exterior siding – 4’x8′ sheet (cut to size)
Roof Deck
2 – 1/2″ plywood – 4’x8′ sheet (cut to size)
Trim
1 – 2×4 – 10′ (cut to size)
2 – 1×4 – 10′ (cut to size)
8 – 1×4 – 8′ (cut to size)
Floor
Cut two 2×6’s to 8′ long for the band and seven 2×6’s to 3′ 9″ long for the floor joist. Floor joist are spaced out 16″ O.C.
Nail 3 1/2″ nails through the plate and into the joist.
Cut two 4×4’s to 8′ long for the skids. Install to the bottom of the floor frame as shown on illustration above. Nail 3 1/2″ nails through the floor frame and into the skids.
Install the 3/4″ plywood for the floor deck. Screw2″ deck screws through the plywood and into the floor frame.
Back Wall Frame
The walls are framed using 2×4 lumber.
Cut two 2×4’s to 8′ long for the top and bottom plate. Cut nine 2×4’s to 7′ 4 1/2″ long for the wall studs, the top of the wall studs will have 18 degrees’ angle cut on the top.
The wall studs are spaced out 16″ O.C. nail 3 1/2″ nails through the top and bottom plate and into the wall studs.
Front Wall Frame
Cut two 2×4’s to 8′ long for the top and bottom plates. Cut six 2×4’s to 6′ 2 1/8″ long for the wall studs.
Frame the door entrance, for details on door framing see:
Nail 3 1/2″ nails through the top and bottom plate and into the wall studs.
Right/Left Wall Frame
Cut four 2×4’s to 3′ 5″ long for the top and bottom plates. Cut eight 2×4’s to 6′ 2 1/8″ for the wall studs. Assemble as shown on illustration above, nail 3 1/2″ nails through the top and bottom plate and into the wall studs.
Rafters
2×4 lumber is used for the rafters.
Cut seven 2×4’s as shown on illustration above for the shed roof rafters.
Install the roof rafters as shown on illustration above, rafters are spaced out 16″ O.C.
Cut and remove the bottom plate on door entrance.
T1-11 Exterior Siding
Install the 4’x8′ exterior siding sheets using 1 1/4″ finishing nails.
Once the siding has been installed cut the side siding along the rafters.
Roof Deck
Cut the 1/2″ plywood for the roof deck, install using 2″ nails.
Trim
Install the trim as shown on illustration above. Cut trim to size and install using 1 1/4″ finishing nails.
Shingles
Install roofing felt, drip edge, and shingles.
Can the door be put on the opposite side? It does not seem like it makes sense for the roof to slope towards the door – snow and rain and ice will fall in front of the door. Better to slop the roof away from the door and towards the back of the sled?
Actually, this is a “Lean To” shed, meaning it’s standing against the wall or fence. Do you want all the rain and debris to collect by the back wall? Perhaps you need another type of shed: free standing with single or double sloped roof.
Good luck.
You can take the measurement for the door opening and figure it on the tall side. Just because it’s a “lean to” doesn’t mean it has to be up against a wall or fence.
It obviously can.. All you do is out the door on the other side….
Good job. Thank you it is just what I was looking for to put against my existing shed.
I like just what i been looking for .
What’s the estimate cost to build this? Looks pretty pricey.
It’s about $500 for the studs, plywood, siding and trim, no hardware, roofing, or door materials, from Lowe’s. You could probably source better lumber for less elsewhere.
Yes. Lowe’s is way too expensive for wood.
I just priced out all materials from the material list (no door) and it came out to $1,231.75 @ Home Depot.
Yep! I’m at about $1000 right now without the cost of the door.
It does include all roofing supplies though!
Completed the 4×8 Lean-to. A lot seemed to be missing from the plans relating to the rafters and roof process
I concur, I spent more time guessing and/or working out what was missing than what was there.
Hello,
Please….Does anyone have plans for a 6×12 Lean-To enclosed shed?
Thanks,
Tom
If you have some computer skills, Google makes a free (and also a “pay for” version) CAD software program called Google Make (it used to be called Sketchup). It is pretty simple and basic. It takes a couple of hours to get through the tutorials and then you are able to draw your own plans to scale in 3D. I have been using this for over 6 years to draw plans.
Do you have plans for this shed with the door on the end?
Do you have plans of this same shed but with a single door on the side rather than two doors on the front? It would be greatly appreciated!!
Thanks
John
I built this shed with door on the end – came out great
Parts list has Simpson A23 clips used on floor. Instructions don’t mention them. Are they used to attach skids?
Should I use pressure treated or untreated lumber for this project?
Treated for anything the meets the ground.
I am looking a this lean to shed start of a model to use for a portable hunt stand for veteran wheel bound hunters. I to add a wheelchair ramp on the back that would hinge into the building. Also the front and side needs to have hinged shooting windows. I was thinking about having on skids so it could be pulled onto a trailer. I live large military base the allows deer and turkey hunting and I would donate the plans to the base for disabled veterans.
Your project sounds exciting. I would love to help you design this. Contact me so I can get some more information and possible dimensions.
Try rpeebs48 on Ebay or Etsy.
I don’t understand the back wall framing. Do you have a better illustration for the 18º cut. Is it just the studs or is it the top plate? Just a little confused on how it’s put together
how can i download these plan its about right size for my yard
With a little thought an some good ole injanuattey spelled wrong but you know what I mean ok back to the leanto you can put the door anywhere you wish this is his plans an ideas he never said you had to stick to them you can make adjustments heck who knows he may like what you changed so much that he would include it on the revised plan’s as an alturenuta way I know I’m looking forward to building something similar in my backyard just got to go dumpster diving a couple more times to get everything I need lol
Got it all framed up! I really wish the door plans would include ACTUAL dimensions for framing single or double door. It just shows pictures. I scaled them based on the shed plans but i don’t know if that will be accurate. You have to build your own custom doors. Plans only show what you need to install bit not the actual dimensions. Looks great though very sturdy and I’m about 500 in on parts. That’s 500-1k cheaper than a comparable shed (ie: tough shed)!
i cannot get the 4 x 8 shed plans to print or send to my email. help please.
Great share, thank you. In the process now. I should have it built verbatim, for under 500$, i will use the racking system currently in garage to hang tools on and add a small drawer /cabinet
How? Where’d you get lumber and hardware???
If the back wall studs are cut at 18 degrees the top plate will angle at 18 degrees making for an uneven top plate when attaching the siding. Am am missing something?
All four walls are flat and square. Just the back wall is taller than the other three. Only the rafters carry the angles needed to mate the back wall to the front.
If you wanted to finish out the inside walls, wouldn’t you need something to nail the paneling/sheetrock to in the corners? Can you space out the corner studs so one of them sticks out far enough to nail to for sheetrock?
Yes, in framing it’s called the “callifornia corner” look it up.
Do you by any chance have the plan for this very shed, yet with the doors on the high side vs the low side?
Anyone have an idea how I am supposed to install the siding on the back side if I’m building this against my house? Isn’t that the whole idea of a lean to that it’s back is up against another structure?
We painted the 4×8 plywood for the back wall and attached it to our preassembled wall. We then walked the wall onto the floor and secured it to the base. The wall will be heavy.
Another way to solve this problem is to build the back wall on the deck and stand it up into position along the back of the deck. Then nail it to the deck 2x4s (through the flooring plywood). You can nail a support 2×4 between the sides of the backwall ends and the deck until the side walls are built and attached in place.
The door trims call for 2x4s. Is that a misprint? Should and could I use 1x4s instead?
You can use 1×4 trim, but I would make the 2×4 frame on the inside to keep the door from warping.
anyone know finished weight on this ?
Has anyone who built this shed added any insulation or venting features? If so, what did you use and how has that been working out for you?
You have went into great detail about how to build the shed but I find no info in how to construct the doors. Do you have any info on how to build the doors up to the point of hanging them with the hinges.
Thanks.
There is a blue link at the bottom of front wall section paragraph.
Hello! I’ve finished the floor but also have questions regarding the 18* cut on the back wall 2x4s and about how to make the doors, as this is my first building construction:
Cut nine 2×4’s to 7′ 4 1/2″ long for the wall studs, the top of the wall studs will have 18 degrees’ angle cut on the top.
I am reading this as they have an 18* angle cut from the long end? as in i\ with the straight side being the 7′ 4″1/2 and the shorter edge being ? with the 18* angle? Then the top plate attached on the angle?
If anyone has insight on how to build the doors / wood cut sizes, I would deeply appreciate it. TY!
Also, what is a safe method to remove the bottom plate from the door frame? Is this a hand saw task? Thanks for any insights from people who build things more than 1-2 x year projects. 🙂
Mark your stud layout first then cut it out with a circular saw. Make sure to set your depth correctly at 1 1/2″ exactly so you don’t cut your subfloor; if it does not cut all the way through the board, a good whack with a hammer usually takes care of it. You can also use a reciprocating saw but it takes a steady hand for a clean job.
Anyone build this with more space between the studs? 16″ makes for a lot of material and is seemingly overkill from a structural standpoint. Lastly, are 4×4’s necessary for the floor skids? I’d like to set it on 2×4’s on some concrete blocks and because this will be underneath my garage overhang I could really use the extra ~3″ in height.
Awesome guide, just what I needed!
Skids are not required for this project. 2×6 joists with OSB are plenty strong enough for this build.
Any come across that tha roof rafters didn’t sit quite right on the front header? The back cut of 18° angle was correct. I still made it work.
Like to hear comments.
For rafters that are mounted inside the rim joist, you will need to cut a miter on both sides. Mark your cuts with a speed square using the common scale and they should all be the same.
Since I live in a high termite area, I would like to use steel studs and epoxy coated steel sheathing. Base would be concrete pavers. I would like to build it 4-1/2’ x 16’ x 88” tall. Do you have any plans using steel studs? Thanks Craig
Could this be constructed as is to use a roll up door on the end or would I need to beef up the supports on the end with the door for that?
If you want to install a roll-up door, you will need some bucks and guide rails, and plenty of extra space to account for the area of the door when fully retracted.
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Thanks
Thank you for the plans!
I don’t see any plans for the door. Am I missing something?
Never mind. I found them in a separate file. Sorry for the oops.
On the materials list, the roof deck calls for two 1/2”x4x8 plywood sheets. Are they being layered on top of each other? The roof deck plans on page 11 don’t mention a second sheet.
i’m wanting to make this to cover my water well pressure tank and pump. 2 things
i need to build it on the ground not on the skids, so instead of floor joists, it’ll be an open space on top of a “box” of 4×4. much like the goat barn. and because this is over the well; i need to make it so the roof can open. i’m thinking slide bolts on the short “front” side left and right. i just can’t come up with the hinge on the tall “back” side