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10×10 lean to shed plans. Plans include a free PDF download (link at bottom of blog post), drawings, material list, and measurements.
10×10 Lean To Shed Plans – Overview
10×10 Lean To Shed Plans – Material List
Shopping List
A shopping list is included. Since lumber can be purchased in different sizes the shopping list will vary. Study the cut list to see what will work best for you.
(material for door/window not included)
Floor
- 2 – 2×6 pressure treated – 10′
- 9 – 2×6 pressure treated – 10′
- 3 – 4×4 pressure treated – 10′
- 4 – 3/4″ tongue and groove plywood – 4’x8′ sheet
Walls
- 8 – 2×4 – 10′
- 28 – 2×4 – 8′
Rafters
- 6 – 2×4 – 12′
- 4 – 2×4 – 8′
Siding
- 10 – t1-11 exterior siding – 4’×8′ sheet
Roof
- 7 – 2×4 – 12′
- 3 – 2×4 – 8′
Trim
- 10 – 1×4 – 8′
Hardware
- 3 1/2″ galvanized nails
- 2″ deck screws
- 2″ galvanized finishing nails
- corrugated roofing panels
- roofing panel screws
- 3 – door hinge
- 1 – door handle
- 1 – door latch
Cutting List
(material for door/window not included)
Floor
- 2 – 2×6 – 10′
- 9 – 2×6 – 9′ 9″
- 3 – 4×4 – 10′
- 4 – 3/4″ tongue and groove plywood – 4’x8′ sheet (cut to size)
Walls
- 4 – 2×4 – 10′
- 8 – 2×4 – 7′ 4 1/2″
- 20 – 2×4 – 5′ 8 1/2″
- 4 – 2×4 – 9′ 5″
Rafters
- 6 – 2×4 – 11′ 10 3/8″
- 4 – 2×4 – 8′ (cut to size)
Siding
- 10 – t1-11 exterior siding – 4’×8′ sheet (cut to size)
Roof
- 7 – 2×4 – 12′
- 3 – 2×4 – 8′ (cut to size)
Trim
- 10 – 1×4 – 8′ (cut to size)
Floor
Cut two 2×6’s to 10′ long for the floor band. Cut nine 2×6’s to 9′ 9″ for the floor joist. Cut three 4×4’s to 10′ long for the skids.
Assemble as shown on illustration above, floor joist are spaced 16″ O.C., use 3 1/2″ nails, nail through the bands and into the joist.
Square the floor frame by measuring diagonally until both sides measure the same.
Measure and cut to size the 3/4″ tongue and groove floor deck.
Screw 2″ deck screws through the plywood floor and into the floor frame.
Walls
Front Wall Frame:
Wall studs are spaced 24″ O.C.
Cut two 2×4’s to 10″ long for the top and bottom plate. Cut eight 2×4’s to 7′ 4 1/2″ for the wall studs.
See door and window framing details:
Use 3 1/2″ nails to assemble wall frame.
Back Wall Frame:
Wall studs are spaced 24″ O.C.
Cut two 2×4’s to 10′ long for the top and bottom plate. Cut eight 2×4’s to 5′ 8 1/2″ for the wall studs.
Use 3 1/2″ nails to assemble wall frame.
Side Wall Frame:
Cut four 2×4’s to 9′ 5″ long for the top and bottom plate. Cut twelve 2×4’s to 5′ 8 1/2″ for the wall studs.
Use 3 1/2″ nails to assemble wall frame as shown on illustration above.
Secure the wall frames using 3 1/2″ nails.
Rafters
Cut six 2×4’s to 11′ 10 3/8″ for the rafters. Cut the ends of the rafters as shown on illustration below.
Before cutting all rafters make sure to test the first rafter for a good fit and use it as a template for cutting the remaining rafters.
Cut the bottom rafter end as shown on illustration above.
Cut the top rafter end as shown on illustration above.
Rafters are spaced out 24″ O.C., install using 3 1/2″ nails.
Measure and cut the top wall studs for the side walls to size, notch around rafters and install using 3 1/2″ nails.
Cut 2×4 blocking to size and install between rafters using 3 1/2″ nails.
Siding
Measure and cut the t1-11 exterior siding to size, notch front and back siding around rafters. Install siding using 2″ finishing nails.
Cut door and window opening, see door and window details.
Roof
Cut seven 2×4’s to 12′ long for the purlins. Install purlins as shown on illustration above using 3 1/2″ nails.
Measure and cut 2×4 blocking and install between the purlins using 3 1/2″ nails.
Install the metal corrugated roofing panels.
Door
Install door.
Trim
Measure and cut 1×4’s to size for the corner and window trim. Install the 1×4 trim using 2″ finishing nails.
I was wondering what are the dimensions for the door and the window
The door and window opening on the drawing is 3 feet by 6 feet six inches for the door and 3 feet by 3 feet for the window.
Daughter and I are building this. Going very well, framing done, but we modified to have a 2X3 window instead of 3×3. Do you think there would be an issue adding a layer of plywood and tar paper under the metal corrugated roof, weight wise? We are in the Pacific Northwest, lots of rain! Any commentary would be helpful. Thank you.
For any significant snow load I would use doubled 2″x 6″s for the rafters, on 24″ centers, then deck the rafters with OSB, then 30# tar paper, then the purlins, followed by the metal roofing, well sealed with silicone at all overlaps.
I like your style. Might as well 2 by six the walls then . Put some R 19 in the walls and ceiling. Maybe use some house wrap under that T 111
Can this be modified for an 8×8 size or are there plans for this in 8×8
Is there a reason the joists are running from front and back walls rather side to side?
i was wondering if i dont want to do so much cutting if i leave the 2×4 on the floor 10ft and make the side walls an extra 3 would that work
Can you replace with a normal shingle roof? Or will the weight of the dealing be too heavy?
The labor that you’d save would soon be very much offset by having to cut narrow corner pieces to cover the gaps that would result. Also your flooring coverage would be thrown off. Follow the plans, do the work, and you will be proud of the results.
Can these plans be modified to a 8′ x 18′?
One of the nicest things about this kind of simple design is that it is very flexible. It can be built any size you need by adjusting the dimensions of the basic components. Get yourself some graph paper and lay out what you need. You’ll soon see where the changes are.
yeah with math
How would I frame the front wall if I want to make a double door no window? I saw the shed door tutorial that included a double door but I wanna make sure that I stud/double stud in the right places so that the Raptors have enough support.
It would be hell if the Raptors got out, might eat to much
‘Seems like every time I turn arround …there goes another pet…damned raptors…lol
Depending on the size of door you need, you may have to move the hinge mounting studs further apart and add a header made of two 2″x 6″s sandwiched (sistered) together to carry the “raptor” load. Sorry, I couldn’t resist.
Nice design, easy to build. I’m making a change to overhang the 2×4 roof blocks on the the two sides the thickness of trim so I can trim top. At the front and back I will add a length of 2×4 between the side blocking that is flush to front and back siding material, again so I can add a trim piece, closing in what I assume is a air flow gap, deterring mice and bees.
The plans call for, and show, 2×4 blocking placed on edge between the rafters to close the gap against the invasion of mice and bees.
You are right Craig. to really close the small holes left by the roofing corrugations there is a foam rubber strip material shaped specifically to seal them.
would it go over a concrete slab I already have or do I have to build the floor and lay it over ?
It will be good on a slab. Use pressure treated 2×4’s for the sills with 30 pound tar paper between the sills and the concrete slab. Once the sills are square pin them down with 1/2″ x 4″ or 5″ expansion bolts spaced about 4 feet apart between the studs.
I have a small shop (16′ x 24″ covered with Mueller steel panels) that’s set on a 4 inch thick slab (replacing a larger barn that burned down). It is built like that and has withstood many hundred mile an hour New Mexico dust devils and some very good thunder storms.
This is a neat little room. I’m adding it to the side of my shop as an office space/computer hobby lab.
Hi,
Anyways I can ensure that overall height is around 8 feet, right now by all calculations its coming around 9 feet from top to skids. something not allowed in my city zoning.
Got that wrong, I am trying to save height to ensure shed is no more than 8 feet or else I will run into permit issues. not sure where to reduce. not sure if anyone has any ideas
Cut you wall studs down by 1 foot all around, keeping all other measurements the same. This will result in the front height of 7’11-1/4″ instead of 8-11-1/4″, and the back height of 5’11-1/4″ instead of 6’11-1/4″. Keep in mind you may need a shorter door.
If you would like to keep a consistent ceiling height in your shed, maybe look into a gable style shed instead of a lean-to style. The Author of this page has links to plans for a gable style shed.
🤣
1st time here
Building a 10×10 lean to
Can i get the plans switched
The door and window are on the shorter side of the roof.
Using plywood on roof . Here in Maine i get alot of snow
Stef