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10×10 shed plans, with gable roof. Plans include a free PDF download (link at bottom of blog post), drawings, measurements, shopping list, and cutting list.
10×10 Shed Plans – Gable Shed – Material List
Shopping List
Shopping List
11 – pressure treated 2×6 – 10′
3 – pressure treated 4×4 – 10′
21 – 2×4 – 10′
70 – 2×4 – 8′
4 – 2×6 – 8′
10 – 1×4 – 8′
4 – 3/4″ tongue and groove plywood – 4’x8′ sheets
12 – t1-11 exterior siding plywood – 4’x8′ sheets
8 – 1/2″ plywood – 4’x8′ sheets
shingles
roof tacks
roofing felt
staples
drip edge
3 1/2″ galvanized nails
1 1/4″ galvanized finishing nails
2″ galvanized nails
2″ deck screws
6 – door hinges
2 – door handles
Cutting List
Cutting List
2 – pressure treated 2×6 – 10′
9 – pressure treated 2×6 – 9′ 9″
3 – pressure treated 4×4 – 10′
15 – 2×4 – 10′
6 – 2×4 – 9′ 5″
44 – 2×4 – 7′ 6″
18 – 2×4 – 6′ 7 5/16″
9 – 2×4 – 2′ 2 7/16″
6 – 2×4 – 1′ 5 3/4″
6 – 2×4 – 2′ 1 3/4″
4 – 2×6 – 6′ 7 5/16″
10 – 1×4 – 8′ ( cut to size )
4 – 3/4″ tongue and groove plywood – 4’x8′ sheets ( cut to size )
12 – t1-11 exterior siding plywood – 4’x8′ sheets ( cut to size )
8 – 1/2″ plywood – 4’x8′ sheets ( cut to size )
The shed floor is built with pressure treated 2×6’s and pressure treated 4×4’s.
Cut two 2×6’s to 10′ long for the band. Cut nine 2×6’s to 9′ 9″ long for the floor joist. Nail 3 1/2″ nails through the 2×6 band and into the floor joist. Floor joist 16″ O.C.
Attach the 10′ long 4×4 pressure treated skids to the bottom of the floor frame. Square out the floor frame by measuring diagonally until both sides measure the same. Secure the 4×4 skids by nailing 3 1/2″ nails through the floor frame and into the 4×4 skids.
Cut to size and install the 3/4″ tongue and groove plywood. Secure the floor plywood with 2″ deck screws.
The front and back wall frame is built using 2×4 lumber.
The wall studs are 16″ O.C.
Assemble the back wall frame as shown on illustration above ( see illustration below for close up view ).
The front wall frame will have a door and window, for instructions on framing the door and window see the pages below:
Assemble the front and back wall frame using 3 1/2″ nails.
Here is a close up look of the front and back wall frame ends.
Cut the 2×4’s as shown on illustration above for the side walls.
Wall studs are 16″ O.C.
If you will be adding a double door to the side wall of the shed see this page for details: Shed Door Plans
Assemble the side wall frame using 3 1/2″ nails.
See illustration above for truss details.
The truss is built using 2×4’s.
Cut the 2×4’s as shown on illustration above. The truss are assembled using 1/2″ plywood gussets. Nail 2″ nails through the gusset and into the truss.
Attach the truss to the shed 16″ O.C. Toenail 3 1/2″ nails through the truss and into the wall frame.
To build the 1′ overhand cut the 2×4’s outriggers as shown above. Notch as shown on illustration above and install the outriggers using 3 1/2″ nails.
Once the outriggers have been installed cut to size the 2×6 roof trim as shown above and install with 3 1/2″ nails.
Install siding using 1 1/4″ finishing nails.
Install doors, and windows.
Cut 2×4’s to size and install between the rafters with 3 1/2″ nails.
Cut t1-11 siding to size and install between the rafters. Use 1 1/4″ finishing nails to install.
Measure, cut, and install the 1/2″ plywood for the roof deck.
Install roofing felt, drip edge, and shingles.
Install 1×4 trim.
I like this plan for 10 x 10 shed. Do you have a more detailed plan with instructions.
This is pretty cool, I might give it a go. Can you provide any more details though? There is a bit of guess-work required and I’m unsure about the reason for some of the details like the plywood filler in the framing. Some reasons why would be helpful.
The plywood fillers are to create depth so that your wall 2x4s can be screwed together.. without these fillers, spacers you have nothing to join corners..
If you slap (2) 2×4’s together, they are only 3” thick. The filler will make it 3-1/2” thick… the same as the width of a 2×4, or the width of the joining wall. This allows the 3rd 2×4 (2×4, filler, 2×4, 2×4) to provide a full 1.5” to attach interior paneling or sheet rock. If you’re leaving the framing open on the inside, then the filler and 3rd 2×4 wouldn’t be necessary.
I am putting this on a concrete slab. I assume I do not need the 4x4s. Also, can I get away with 2X4 floor joists resting on the concrete?
Always use a water proof material between you concrete and wood. A couple of sheets of tar paper or better would be a shingle or 2 of roofing shingle. Water will absorb into the wood from the concrete. Also, if you did get flooded having a barrier between the wood and concrete will facilitate drying out. 🙂
Can I get the measurements in raw lumber please ??
I’d like to know the answers to both Ryan and David’s questions, please.
I’ll be building on an existing brickwork foundation which is a few inches over 10′ along the front, (with the door centered), but it’s only a little over 9′ deep.
Some suggestions for scaling the plans. Mainly how to carry the adjustments to the roofing supports and the trusses.
Thanks,
Chuck
The plywood fillers are to create depth so that your wall 2x4s can be screwed together.. without these fillers, spacers you have nothing to join corners..
I’ve been looking for a plan that will help me get the garden shed I’ve been wanting for years. Thank you for this. I had started a shed last year but only managed a floor and 2 walls before doubting my progress. I think I’ll be pulling the walls down and lifting the floor to get a better foundation and then following these plans instead of winging it and getting zero assistance from my S/O (who happens to be a framer)!
Do you have openings for door and construction of doors
OMG. These are fantastic plans. Simple easily understood. Well done to whomever set this site up. Thank you and well done friends.
Based on your plans I’m confident that I can tackle this project. I’ve read over the instructions and most of it makes sense, I do have a question in regard to quantity of fasteners required. Roughly, how many are required as per your list? I’d hate to run out mid stream and have to run to the hardware store.
3 1/2″ galvanized nails
1 1/4″ galvanized finishing nails
2″ galvanized nails
2″ deck screws
Is there any way to open the middle trusses for more head room?
As a carpenter for 30 years these plans could not be any clearer nice job
I like this shed, am trying to find the 10×10 gable plans but only find the 12×12 download. Would love more details on the 10×10 to replace the shed that blew down from last wind storm.
My son helped me do this build in 5 days. Before he arrived, I cut all of the lumber to the specs in the plans. Everything worked out perfectly. I did make a couple of changes. I cut the trusses so that I could install vertical facia. I did not use decking on the roof as I installed a metal roof which we need up north because of snow.
With all of the plans and pre cutting everything, it went together as if it were a shed kit, only much stronger and better looking. I really recommend this site.
Are you able to provide the updated plan? I’d like to use the metal roof
Hi Rio,
Since you actually did this project, I wonder if there is any particular reason that the 2×4 truss measures exactly 6’7 and 5/16″ and the king post measures 2’2 7/16″?
Thanks,
Ami
The intent is to achieve a traditional/classic roof pitch of 4/12, so the roof is not too steep or too flat.
i like it
nice